和服之美,手工之精——日式锦囊和锦袋

小玩意儿有大故事,比如锦囊和锦袋。

原则上每个日本女人一生起码拥有一套和服,注意不是浴衣。很多人以为的和服,99%都是浴衣。两者的价格差距从100倍开始。毕业典礼、结婚、葬礼,理论上必须穿着和服。一套做工精致的和服可以传家,或者作为怀念先人的遗物。

时代在变化,曾经每个家庭必不可缺的和服,现在基本变成每家必缺品。明治维新后,洋服和西装改变了日本的传统衣着,和服逐渐从日常衣服变成象征性着装。进入21世纪,和服在年轻人眼里已是出土文物一样的存在。必须穿着的场合,宁可高价租,也不分期付款买。

由此导致曾经是大家闺秀象征的和服师彻底失业。日本没有职业裁缝,女人都会缝补衣服。和服例外,只有大户人家的女儿才会缝补和服。和服师作为血统和地位的象征,现在依然非常受人尊敬,就是没有收入。

受经济压力所迫,99%的和服师都受聘为量产化工厂的“技术指导”,批量生产化学纤维的各种“标准日本旅游纪念品包袋”,专门面向外国游客,获利丰厚。这年代面子只是象征性存在,里子才是关键。

某些偏远地区(比如北海道和长崎)的和服师,由于现实和尊严,拒绝同流合骗,坚持手工缝制。这年代缝制和服显然已不现实,拆解和服制成各种锦囊是迫不得已的举动。

传统派日本人对于自认为珍贵的藏品,比如人形、根付(压坠)、酒杯、首饰,都会用锦囊收藏。托福传统派还没死绝,所以仅剩的和服师凭借订制锦囊苟延残喘。获利微薄,并且由于高龄年年减少,日益稀绝。

拆解祖传和服的心情只有大家闺秀才能理解,普通人很难体会到这种丧家之痛。锦囊体积小难度大,从一件和服上面精挑细选一块成品后保持图案完整的布料,需要足够的智慧。

现存和服师均为高龄,身体健康,但眼花缭乱。缝制锦囊是一丝不苟的工作,从选料到成品,一针一线起码10天。小物难缝,没有手艺的人很难体会。这不是仅供欣赏的旅游纪念品,非常具有实用性,并且必须展现美学和艺术性。

这次精选札幌(北海道)和长崎两位和服师的锦囊和锦袋作品,盈利为次,展现和服之美为主。每种都独一无二,并且不可能再订制。一针一线,一丝不苟,真正体现手工艺术的独特性。我可以保证这是最后一代真正的传统和服师,也即真正的大家闺秀。

Japanese clothing

There are typically two types of clothing that the Japanese wear: the Japanese clothing (和服wafuku), such as kimonos, and Western clothing (洋服yōfuku). Japanese traditional fashion combines multiple styles that reflect early Japan’s visual culture. It represents the culture’s visible artistic and traditional values and joins them together to create a form of fashion recognizable to foreign cultures.

The most well known form of Japanese traditional fashion is the kimono (translates to “something to wear”), Although the traditional wear for Japan became popularized during the Heian period (794-1185) and was worn casually at the time, it is now rare to find people doing so due to the difficult process associated with the wardrobe.

Each type of garment corresponds to a special occasion, such as festivals, ceremonies, or weddings. The materials, colors, and layers used for the clothing differentiate them and their significance, as the looks are also often worn seasonally. The clothing that embodies the culture represents Japan’s traditional values that remain in their community to this day.

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投稿者:

明珠

明月在天,清辉满地

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